Saturday, 25 September 2010
Not content with pattern cutting inconceivably complex masterpieces, Michael Van Der Ham has shifted up a gear this season by creating his own fabrics. Having previously delved into the depths of Liberty's florals, Michael has now developed his very own detailed devore. The textural sheers, bleached jerseys and subtle metallics are the result of experimental mark making from brushes and inks, then exposed onto screens and tessellated with this magic process. Shiaparelli style swooshes spill over pleats of Grecian gathered folds and tuck neatly into dissecting seams. These flowing gowns which lick the female form with flattering grace swished down the runway amidst looks of sexy silk trousers that perfectly cupped the bum and cut into the tail bone with a wide waistband. So it seems that Van Der Ham doesn't just know how to sew a dress that can be thrown on and transform a figure but has now turned his hand to killer pants. The loose wide leg trousers opened to a hem finished off with neat heels by Nicholas Kirkwood from the velvet that is scattered across the patterned sheers. (Sheer was a strong story across LFW but who else had taken time to dismiss mills and conceive their own!?............flesh peeped thru revealing gaps in this arranged abstract 3D print). It appears to me that Michael has managed to jump ahead 3 seasons but still maintain his unwavering covetable care for piecing together colour and cut. I think the future is most certainly in his hands and I'm desperate to see which house snaps him up..............
To read Tim Blanks review and see full runway shots, click here
Friday, 24 September 2010
And there's more sweet Stewart collaborations this season...............
Noel is making hat after hat after hat after hat after hat after hat after hat and after that he makes another hat.
(top to bottom: for Louise Amstrup, for Marc by Marc Jacobs, for Julian J Smith, for Roksanda Ilincic)
To see Noel's own S/S collection "Island Life" he will also be in Paris:
On/Off, Paris 29th - 5th Oct : Galerie Cadain, 76 Rue Quincampoix, 75003, Paris
Facebook is a brilliant medium for staying in touch with what everyone is up to at an instant glance. I spied a snap of a cute puppy on Noel Stewart's status and recognised the perky pug to be the infamous Ramone belonging to Gemma Slack. Noel had been visiting Gemma working on the millinery for her S/S collection and now I have stumbled across his photos from the look book shoot ..........
I love this beautiful billowing soft silhouette of a headscarf draped over Noel's large gold rim straw sun hat. The pastel organza and silk is printed with a collage of female nudes to add a palette of pinks and purples to her predominantly black line. The design has come about thru a collaboration with photographer Kristin Vicari who shot bruised skin for the thematic print.
I'm getting really excited about more designers branching out with inclusion of millinery to accessorize their outfits! Woo Hoo!
To have a look at these tip top hats, track down Gemma's showroom in Paris.........
The Basement at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Galerie Odile Ouizeman
10/12 Rue Des Coutures, Saint-Gervais, 75003 Paris
Thursday 30th September - Tuesday 5th October.
"What was lovely is the invitation which had a nice b/w image and Russian text.
The Pleasant Associates space was cosy, and the prints were shown small which was a great way to convey the delicacy and intimacy of the images. A great crowd was gathered outside, and lovely host William Oliver was looking very debonair!" Amy Gwatkin
30D Great Sutton St, London EC1V 0DU
17/9/10 - 13/11/10
Thursday, 23 September 2010
According to REBEL, Gary Card "Loves a pussy in a girdle"...........to accompany the interview with the artist in the 2nd issue of the publication, Gary illustrated some animals to sit alongside the text. On one of my studio visits upstairs to see Mr Card I found him inventing these cheeky chappies in their miniature chaps. So ridiculous and adorable! Here are the finished ink drawings hanging on his wall............to see the final artwork and read the Q&A with Jaiden Jeremy James pick up a copy of REBEL from Diesel outlets across London and keep your eye out for key stockists in other major cities.
A few other bits and bobs from the sheds of men - a brass section performed all afternoon like a band stand wearing Omar Kashoura, Christopher Shannon's new collab with Eastpak, and Cooperative Designs diffusion for Aertex which is bang on the money with the current exposure of Mod style from Shane Meadow's "This is England"................
The New Gen exhibition space down on the riverside veranda of Somerset House was cleared out from womenswear and given over to menswear installations yesterday. The sun was shining down like a summers day making the white slatted shed show space feel like a seaside resort full of inextricably well dressed men!
Husam El Odeh filled his cabin with alchemy by smelting tin to make little silver pendants as gifts for visitors. His S/S 11 "Alchemia" work is investigating the sinister spiritual side of the chemistry. I am extremely happy with my new Husam souvenir and it is currently sitting proud round my neck ............ a tiny token of something far more magic from his latest work......... not to mention the RIDICULOUS RAD eyewear with Miharayasuhiro.......
Yesterday was the round up of LFW with the last day given over exclusively to menswear. The highlight for me was "New Power Studio" who had the ultimate accessory of the whole week - a child in a rucksack (wearing Reebok Classics!) - TOO CUTE! They also had a mini dance troop with a choreographed walk which was so refreshing .......... I would love to see more shows broken up with movement like this ..........
Tuesday, 21 September 2010
Piers Atkinson had a little chuckle at me concentrating on taking pictures backstage at David Koma and found me doing exactly the same at the Giles party.........this has been my stance a good majority of the LFW proceedings.........blogging mad! (thanks for the pics Piers!)
Here is Bethan Wood beaming with gold glitter eyebrows and matching shimmering shoes.......which I had to snap on the special one-off Giles carpet laid for the event! The fun playful gimmicks continued with a free Mister Whipee van parked outside and a menu of mini burgers & hot dogs inside........... alongside Scampi of which Giles offered me from his own pot when we were introduced - what a gent! It was a real proper London Fashion Week party with real people and consequently really good fun! My Fave quote of the night - Me: is that a stegasaurus on your dress? Jeanette: No, its a tranasauras!