Saturday, 24 September 2011
Since discovering AGI & SAM last year, they are my absolute favourite installation to make a bee line for now - always exquisite colour and unapologetic fun - fantastic. This season did not disappoint and in fact bowled me over. I want the whole lot, and I'm not even a lad. The collection entitled "Tobasco, Tequila and Tomato Juice" is a fusion of (what I'm guessing) Vincent Van Gough brush strokes, Mexican wrestlers and woven textiles, basketry and mosaic Trompe-l'œil with a splash of dip dye digital rainbow. All in all, not too far removed from my own influences this season, especially the makeup by Thom Ticklemouse with the models hands flecked in paint which is what my hands have looked like from painting my fabrics this summer. The artist's "world" was reflected in the set by Luke Abby with broken pots in the same hue as the collection and name constructed from sticks on the fire place. Apparently the grand plan was to fill the sun drenched room with marigolds but health and safety stopped this pollinating plot in its tracks - something worth remembering when you visit LFW at Somerset House as many concepts are squashed with this frustrating constraint.
As I wrote in my report for The Daily, I was so impressed with the pattern continuation from pant to shoe, and the range of footwear is sublime. This is a stunning and sophisticated shift up a gear from last season's equally uplifting selection of suits and a sure fire indication of direction the duo's brand is going ........ up, up and away......... what I would really like now, is to see a whole lemon yellow look and straw fedora on David Byrne.
Its my favourite day of the week in the S/S season because invariably the sun breaks out to enlighten Somerset House and most people are floating about free from finishing their own collections. The vibe is very relaxed and everyone is hyped to finally be hanging out and catching up. Of course the third element of intrigue is the wealth of ridiculously beautiful boys holed up in one place at one time - with the ratio of straight single women and gay eagle eyed men at fashion week makes this an undeniable appreciative audience............... the champagne flows ............. and the gent's garms on display are the real treat! Here is a selection from Astrid Anderson, William Richard Green, Carri Cassette Playa, Aaron Frew infront of the film of NOKI's show he modelled in, and A Child of the Jago who showed off site at the world's oldest music hall which was a stunning and beautiful location to lure us all to, with the cherry on the cake of Dame Vivienne Westwood sat on the front row.
Whilst down at Somerset House for London Fashion Week I was blogging for the website of The Daily, winging over a snap of my favourite accessory of the day. I complimented each image with an anecdote to explain my choice and more often than not a little history to the piece. Head over to the paper's site to see what I else I discovered in addition to these Ferragamo rainbow platforms and Barbara Grispini's Christopher Kane wares............. here.
Thursday, 22 September 2011
Michael Van Der Ham's spring/summer 2012 collection was inspired by the photographs of Joseph Szabo, designing for the women in his pictures.
Another inspiration was a collage effect of vintage prints, referencing an eclectic mix of brush strokes, feathers, confetti and geometrics. The resulting prints adorned a mix of sheer and lightweight fabrics to create interesting silhouettes in rich turquoise and purple hues.
After gaining many fans with a capsule collection for Topshop, it seems Van Der Ham also has a fan in Anna Dello Russo, who graced the front row.
Sunday, 18 September 2011
Ever wondered what goes down moments before a show begins? In the case of Fred, there were some last minute stitching tweaks, cameras flashing/filming at every opportunity, and stylist Kim Howells giving the girls a final look over before they entered the presentation room.
The film released to coincide with the collection is now viewable exclusively over at Style Bubble.